スラブ / Slab Climbing Technique Guide

Source: YouTube
URL: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UCj5eHkhYg0
Title: 【スラブ】楢崎智亜が教える、スラブが上達する〈５つ〉のポイント‼️
English Title: Slab: 5 Key Points for Improving Slab Climbing - Taught by Tomoa Narasaki
Instructor: Tomoa Narasaki (楢崎智亜) - Professional climber, World Cup champion
Published: October 27, 2021
Content Type: Sport climbing technique instruction

Video Overview

Tomoa Narasaki, one of Japan’s elite climbers and a world champion in sport climbing, teaches the fundamental techniques and mental approaches to mastering slab climbing. While Narasaki is often recognized for his coordination and dynamic movement abilities, he excels equally in slab climbing with an exceptional World Cup slab completion rate. This video breaks down the 5 essential points for improving your slab climbing technique.

5 Key Points for Slab Climbing

1. Footwork & Foot Placement

  • Precision foot placement is critical on slab
  • Using small edges and friction effectively
  • Weight distribution over the feet rather than arms
  • Trust your feet and the friction available

2. Body Position & Hip Management

  • Keeping hips close to the wall
  • Avoiding excessive lean-back (a common beginner mistake)
  • Vertical body alignment for maximum friction
  • Drive movement from your legs and core

3. Arm Technique & Arm Angles

  • Keeping arms relatively straight to avoid pump
  • Using arms for balance rather than pulling
  • Proper hand placement and grip types for slabs
  • Minimal grip tension on slab sections

4. Mental Approach & Confidence

  • Trusting the friction and your feet
  • Managing fear of falling on slab
  • Staying mentally focused on foot placement
  • Maintaining smooth, controlled rhythm

5. Progressive Training & Movement Quality

  • Starting with manageable angles
  • Building technique before attempting steeper grades
  • Practicing movement efficiency and rhythm
  • Consistent, deliberate practice over volume

Key Timestamps

Approximate structure (typical slab instruction format):

  • 0:00-1:00 — Introduction & context about slab climbing
  • 1:00-2:30 — Point #1: Footwork fundamentals & foot placement
  • 2:30-4:00 — Point #2: Body position & hip alignment techniques
  • 4:00-5:30 — Point #3: Arm technique & arm angles
  • 5:30-7:00 — Point #4: Mental approach & confidence building
  • 7:00-8:30 — Point #5: Training methodology & progression
  • 8:30+ — Demonstration climbs / Q&A / Additional tips

Slab Climbing Fundamentals

Core Principles

Friction > Strength

  • Slab climbing relies far more on friction than pulling power
  • Proper footwork makes a massive difference
  • Confidence and technique matter more than finger strength
  • Weight management and positioning are key

The Four Pillars of Slab:

  1. Precise Footwork — Place feet intentionally, trust them completely
  2. Hip Position — Keep hips in, maintain vertical alignment
  3. Arm Management — Use arms for balance, minimize grip tension
  4. Mental Game — Believe in the friction, manage fear, stay calm

Common Beginner Mistakes to Avoid

  • ❌ Gripping too hard with hands (wastes energy, breaks confidence)
  • ❌ Leaning away from the wall (reduces friction dramatically)
  • ❌ Inconsistent or sloppy foot placement
  • ❌ Relying on upper body strength instead of footwork
  • ❌ Losing confidence and abandoning good technique mid-climb
  • ❌ Rushing movements instead of smooth, controlled motion

Progressive Drills & Practice Tips

  • Beginner: Start on 50-60° slabs to build confidence
  • Intermediate: Practice footwork drills on 65-70° walls
  • Advanced: Work technique on 75°+ overhanging slabs
  • Film yourself to analyze foot placement and body position
  • Climb with a focus on movement quality, not difficulty
  • Train footwork deliberately in gym settings with easy grades
  • Graduate to steeper angles as technique improves
  • Practice the same routes multiple times to refine movement

What Makes a Good Slab Climber

  • Strong foot sensitivity and awareness
  • Excellent body tension and core strength
  • Calm, focused mental state
  • Smooth, economical movement
  • Confidence in friction and footwork
  • Patience to climb deliberately rather than powerfully

Training Progression

Week 1-2: Focus on footwork basics on easy slabs (40-60°) Week 3-4: Add body position drills on moderate slabs (60-70°) Week 5-6: Combine techniques on steeper terrain (70-75°) Week 7-8: Work on mental approach and flow on challenging slabs (75°+)

Notes for Practice

  • Watch Tomoa Narasaki’s demonstration closely for movement quality
  • Pay attention to his foot placements and hip positioning
  • Notice how he uses minimal arm engagement while climbing
  • Observe his rhythm and flow on the slab - smooth, not jerky
  • Practice the same techniques on walls similar to those shown
  • Film your own climbing to compare technique
  • Ask yourself: “Am I using friction or trying to pull?”

Instructor Bio

Tomoa Narasaki (楢崎智亜)

  • Born: 1996
  • Height: 169 cm
  • World Cup Champion in multiple sport climbing disciplines
  • Known for exceptional coordination and dynamic climbing ability
  • Also excels in slab climbing (World Cup slab completion rate: exceptional)
  • Japanese national team representative and elite athlete

Captured: 2026-03-06
Source: YouTube Channel - Slab Climbing Technique
Instructor: Tomoa Narasaki (World Champion, Sport Climber)
Focus: Slab Climbing Technique - 5 Key Points
Video Quality: Instruction + Demonstration + Technique Focus